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Knowledge – FAQ

How are rings made (classic wedding rings)

Joining by welding

The first option is to join them together by welding. In this process, the desired material is first prepared in the required proportions and then reshaped and welded together. This method is mainly used with platinum, as this metal can be welded in an absolutely invisible and permanent way.

In contrast, alloys containing palladium, such as champagne or white gold, have a different property. Due to the palladium they contain, they absorb significantly more oxygen, which leads to the formation of many small air holes or cavities.

Punching & turning 

The next variant is punching and slip-forming. In this process, the material is also melted and poured into a round shape. The material is then rolled and punched out. The surface of this "disk" is then turned by slip-forming or deep-drawing, so that the ring is created in its basic shape.

A major advantage of this method is that we can produce a ring without any welding or soldering. While welding is not a problem with platinum, as described above, this is different with palladium-containing alloys.

Finally, we use a hammer, file and lathe to shape the ring into the desired shape.

Precious Metals & Alloys

gold alloys

Pure gold has a fineness of 999, which corresponds to 24 carats. To make the material more durable for jewelry, it is mixed into various alloys. Particularly common are 585 gold (14 carats) and 750 gold (18 carats), to which metals such as silver or copper are added. These metals influence the color nuances: a higher copper content produces a reddish tone, while silver makes the gold lighter.

yellow gold is created by mixing gold, silver and a little copper. The color varies depending on the ratio of these metals, but remains classic yellow.

rose and red gold are created by a higher proportion of copper and less silver. The ratio of the metals determines the color, which tends more towards reddish or pinkish, depending on the mixture.

White gold is achieved by adding at least 13% palladium, which causes the gold to lose its yellow color. White gold is often rhodium-plated in addition to achieve a brighter white. However, I am critical of rhodium-plating because the layer peels off over time.

champagne and hazelnut gold are made from a mixture of palladium and other metals. In contrast to white gold, the palladium content remains below 13%, so that the warm color of the gold is retained and shines through slightly.

platinum & palladium alloys

Platinum and palladium belong to the platinum metals and shine in jewelry making due to their exceptional durability and noble shine. Platinum impresses with its high density and weight, while its characteristic bright color makes it particularly sought after.

Palladium is lighter and slightly darker, but is becoming increasingly popular because it offers similar properties to platinum. Palladium requires special care in processing because it binds large amounts of oxygen. Therefore, it should only be melted in a vacuum or under protective gas to protect the metal from porosity. Otherwise, it becomes difficult to process and loses its aesthetic quality.

The following alloys are processed:

  • Platinum 960 – 96% platinum & 4% copper 
  • fine platinum – 99,9% platinum (pure platinum)
  • Palladium-500 – When palladium is alloyed down, paradoxically a darker color is created.

silver alloys

Silver is one of the oldest and most valuable precious metals and has been used in jewelry, coins and art objects for thousands of years. As a relatively soft, shiny metal, it is easy to work with and is characterized by its high reflectivity and its distinctive white shine. Pure silver (999 fine silver) is very soft and susceptible to scratches and deformation, which is why it is often alloyed to improve durability.

The most common silver alloy is Sterling silver (also called 925 silver), which is 92,5% pure silver and alloyed with 7,5% copper or other metals. This mixture increases strength without affecting the characteristic shine of silver. Sterling silver is the preferred material for jewelry, cutlery and other decorative objects.

Argentium silver is a more modern silver alloy that contains germanium instead of copper. This alloy is particularly resistant to tarnishing and is therefore preferred for high-quality jewelry.

In addition to sterling silver, there is also 800er silver (consisting of 80% silver and 20% other metals, usually copper). This alloy is often used for cutlery and larger household items because it is more durable but lacks the high shine of sterling silver.

  • workability: Silver is very malleable and can be easily soldered, bent and forged, making it ideal for jewelry and detailed work. It melts at relatively low temperatures (961 °C), which also makes it popular for casting.
Surfaces - Structures

The surface design of wedding rings and jewelry offers many possibilities to create different designs and textures. Here are some of the most common techniques:

  • polishing: This involves polishing the ring to a high gloss, giving it a smooth and shiny surface. This method creates an elegant, timeless look.
  • Brush: The ring is processed with a special tool to create a matte or satin finish. Different textures are created by using different brush thicknesses and directions.
  • Structure: Techniques such as hammering, filing, engraving or etching can be used to create interesting patterns and textures on the ring surface, resulting in unique designs.
  • sandblasting: The ring is blasted with sand or another material to create a rough, matte surface. This method offers versatile textures, but does not last long before the ring begins to shine.
  • laser engraving: Using a laser, fine, precise patterns and engravings can be applied to the ring. This technique enables particularly detailed and personal designs.
hammer blow / file
Mokume gane wedding rings platinum palladium rose gold silver etched mvh berlin
Brushed
Polished & Brushed
laser engravings

Laser engravings offer a great way to personalize wedding rings. With a precise laser, personal engravings and texts can be worked directly into the metal. First, we create the template. Then we carefully transfer it to the ring.

Engravings such as names, initials or special dates are often popular and are usually placed on the inside of the ring. These personal details remain discreet and are only visible to the wearer, which makes the ring even more special.

Symbols or patterns can also be laser engraved onto the ring. Whether it is a coat of arms, a symbol or something very personal - we will be happy to implement it.

A big advantage of laser engraving is its precision. We can even create fine details on a small surface area, and the engraving will last for a long time.

And the best thing is: the laser engraving is already included in the price of our wedding rings!

laser engraved rings
ring size change

Over time, it may be necessary to adjust the ring size - be it due to weight changes, pregnancy or other reasons. Wedding rings are not spared from this either. Fortunately, there are various methods to adjust the ring size so that the ring always sits comfortably and securely on the finger.

This of course also applies to Mokume Gane rings. They can also be customized so that you can continue to enjoy the unique beauty and special craftsmanship of your ring.